You've Got Merlot
I've discovered during my brief time in the wine industry, that every vintage is unique - and troublesome. The perfect year isn't perfect until it's over and we can look back at it. (And I've yet to meet one of those years). 2005 in the Napa and Sonoma Valleys is consistent with the inconsistency of grape growing. Spring was early, which led speculation of an early harvest. Late Spring rains damaged some flowers, reducing crop a bit. The Summer was perfect for setting the fruit, and the Fall seemed to follow suit with nice warm days and calm cool nights. Until now that is.
Most of the Napa fruit is still hanging from the vine while a long, unseasonal, cool spell is hanging in the skies. The plants need another hit of heat to push them to the proper sugar levels - which in Napa are usually notoriously high. This long final wait may lead to fruit that is more 'truly' biologically ripe, and lower alcohols in the final wines - A more European style if you must. What I mostly see is a lot of winemakers sitting around waiting for their grapes to come in.
Over at Blankiet this is thankfully not the case. We did wait a bit, and cleaned a little bit more, but our site in the Mayacamas toe hills is early ripening (though also later than last year) and as of yesterday the entirety of our Merlot - a grand 32 tons - is crushed. The first of our Cab sauv will roll across the tables mid-week and we may press off our first dry wine at week's end. I am especially pleased as I am expected in Germany mid-October and thought I might not get to see the whole process through.
It's been a kick to work in the World Famous Napa Valley. Wine is very serious business in these parts, and you don't take many chances with a bottle that will score 98 points and retail for over $100. It's still fun, but it's definitely different. Also different, is working for a Consulting Winemaker. Helen Turley is great (and tall and handsome and famous and humble) - she shares her thoughts freely while she works and will gladly take the time to answer our questions - when she's around. We take samples every morning from our tanks of juice and send them up to Helen's house in Calistoga along with their charts. Helen and Jon taste them, and fax their comments to the winery. There are written protocols in our manuals for additions, pumpovers, etc., and Helen's associates at Blankiet - Brian and Jeanne - are extremely capable winemakers in their own right. It's sort of a recipe, although you never know what kind of shape the ingredients (the grapes) are going to be in. Decisions about the wine are generally made only after a phone call or two.
What's the secret? There are so many of them, from the slow sorting to the splashing pumpover (just how it sounds). I think I've barely scratched the surface. That to me is one of the greatest joys of making wine. Everyday when I go to work I learn something new. And I don't know of many who can say that about their jobs, but I do wish it for everyone.
Most of the Napa fruit is still hanging from the vine while a long, unseasonal, cool spell is hanging in the skies. The plants need another hit of heat to push them to the proper sugar levels - which in Napa are usually notoriously high. This long final wait may lead to fruit that is more 'truly' biologically ripe, and lower alcohols in the final wines - A more European style if you must. What I mostly see is a lot of winemakers sitting around waiting for their grapes to come in.
Over at Blankiet this is thankfully not the case. We did wait a bit, and cleaned a little bit more, but our site in the Mayacamas toe hills is early ripening (though also later than last year) and as of yesterday the entirety of our Merlot - a grand 32 tons - is crushed. The first of our Cab sauv will roll across the tables mid-week and we may press off our first dry wine at week's end. I am especially pleased as I am expected in Germany mid-October and thought I might not get to see the whole process through.
It's been a kick to work in the World Famous Napa Valley. Wine is very serious business in these parts, and you don't take many chances with a bottle that will score 98 points and retail for over $100. It's still fun, but it's definitely different. Also different, is working for a Consulting Winemaker. Helen Turley is great (and tall and handsome and famous and humble) - she shares her thoughts freely while she works and will gladly take the time to answer our questions - when she's around. We take samples every morning from our tanks of juice and send them up to Helen's house in Calistoga along with their charts. Helen and Jon taste them, and fax their comments to the winery. There are written protocols in our manuals for additions, pumpovers, etc., and Helen's associates at Blankiet - Brian and Jeanne - are extremely capable winemakers in their own right. It's sort of a recipe, although you never know what kind of shape the ingredients (the grapes) are going to be in. Decisions about the wine are generally made only after a phone call or two.
What's the secret? There are so many of them, from the slow sorting to the splashing pumpover (just how it sounds). I think I've barely scratched the surface. That to me is one of the greatest joys of making wine. Everyday when I go to work I learn something new. And I don't know of many who can say that about their jobs, but I do wish it for everyone.
posted by Sur Lie at 10:10 AM
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